Fabric identification can be tough, especially with older fabrics for the inexperienced. Burn tests are
often the most accurate way to identify a fabric when done properly. Please use caution when doing a
burn test. Only burn small amounts of fabric (2 inch square or 4 inches of 3-4 individual strands). Burn in
a well ventilated area with no draft or fans. Use a room that is odor neutral and a pair of needle nose
pliers or scissors to hold the fabric. Lastly, burn over a non flammable area such as a metal sink, a large
glass bowl, plate, or baking sheet. It also helps to keep a large cup of water or a good spray bottle on
hand just in case! Wondering where to chop the fabric? Look for extra material on the inside seams and
try to stay away from hem lines and waist seams as that extra material is desirable for future alterations.
Good luck and BURN BABY BURN!
Material/Fabric Name
Flame Properties
Smoke
Properties
Ash/Residue
Smell and Misc
NATURALS
As a general rule they
ignite easily with a
steady glowing flame
Most have minimal
smoke
Usually leaves a soft ash
that can be blown or
wiped away, if any
Paper, wood or leaves
smell.
Cotton
Ignites easy, continues
to burn when removed
from flame. Usually a
sputtering flame.
Little white to grey
smoke.
Soft white or grey ash
that blows away. I can
still see the weave in
the ash on personal
tests.
Love the smell, burning
paper or wood. Cotton
burns rather slow. Has a
glow after flame is out
Hemp
Very similar to cotton.?
White to grey
smoke?
Grey to white ash?
I put question marks on
this one because I have
not personally burned.
Linen
Very similar to cotton,
a little harder to ignite
and a slower burn.
Same as Cotton
Same as Cotton, may be
more brittle at the base
of the ash on the fabric
edge.
Appearance will differ
from cotton, you will
easily know the
difference. Same smell.
Silk
Ignites quickly, burns
easy, and slower the
thicker it is. Curls as
it burns.
Very minimal smoke
to light.
Leaves a beaded or
gritty dark grey or
black ash.
Smells like burning hair
but sometime too faint.
Harder to extinguish than
Cotton.
Wool
Ignites rather easy but
can go out easy, you
may have to relight.
Burns like silk, slow
and curls.
Heavier smoke than
silk but not always.
Most wool is treated
so this will be
effected.
Same type of ash, small
crushable beads or grit.
Smells like burning hair.
Will be stronger than silk.
RAYON (1/2 natural and
synthetic)
Burns slower than
cotton. Steady flame,
minimal dark grey to
black smoke
Tends to have a
darker smoke than
cotton, but can vary.
Soft ash that can be
blown away. Is slightly
more brittle than
Cotton ash and may be
gritty.
Paper or wood like smell.
Tends to have more ash
left and is not as clean of
a burn as Cotton. Has a
bright glow before flame
burns out.
SYNTHETICS
Tend to retreat from
flames and melts.
Usually dark and
thick smoke
Hard, brittle, lumpy
ashes, or melted beads
Harsh acidic smells or
little to no smell. Usually
blended making hard to
identify
Acetate
Melts and burns with
flame. Will retreat
from flame, burns
quick.
Sometimes dark
grey to black smoke.
Hard dark  brittle bead.
Can drip while burning
be careful.
Vinegary or treated wood
smell.
Acrylic
Retreats from flame.
Burns rapidly, melts.
It will burn if flame is
on it long enough.
Sputtering flame.
Varies
Hard brittle irregular
ash/beading.
Harsh acidic smell.
Nylon
Melts then burns, will
retreat from flame.
Burns slowly.
White smoke
Hard grey, smoky or
brown bead.
Vegetable or plant like
smell. I've read celery. If
ash is burned, smells like
plastic.
Polyester
Melts and burns at the
same time, retreats
from flame.
Black smoke
Hard brittle cream or
brown bead. Can turn
black if burned
excessively.
Sweet or acidic smell.
Drips while burning. The
drippings are sometimes
on fire.
Spandex
Melts, does not retreat
from flame
 
Black or dark ash
An acidic or rubber smell
like a hot pencil eraser.
Blends/Mixes are also common among fabrics, such as Rayon Acetate Crepe, or 50/50 Poly Cotton blend.
Many wools and cottons have also been treated with chemicals so this will affect the testing also.  As a
general rule list the fabric it most closely resembles but also state the a burn test was not conclusive, or
that you are not 100% sure. Most commonly you will find Rayon or Acetate blended into fabrics of the
40s, 50s, and early 60s. From the late 60s on its Polyester that makes its mark in history. Pure Polyester
was very common in the 70s as it is today.
A handy burn chart for fabric identification. Feel free to copy and/or keep this!
Sites used in research: www.fabrics.net     www.fiber-images.com     reviews.ebay.com
Summer 2010!
PROUD MEMBER
OF THE VINTAGE
FASHION GUILD
2009